On Eastnor Knoll by John Masefield

SILENT are the woods, and the dim green boughs are

Hushed in the twilight: yonder, in the path through

The apple orchard, is a tired plough-boy

Calling the cows home.

 

A bright white star blinks, the pale moon rounds, but

Still the red, lurid wreckage of the sunset

Smoulders in smoky fire, and burns on

The misty hill-tops.

 

Ghostly it grows, and darker, the burning

Fades into smoke, and now the gusty oaks are

A silent army of phantoms thronging

A land of shadows.

John Masefield was born on 1st June 1878 in Ledbury, Herefordshire, in a house called The Knapp which was built by his father at the top end of town (The Homend).  The house is now difficult to spot as it is well hidden behind tall trees.  However, a member of the Masefield family owned and lived in the house at the time that I first wrote this, and he kindly gave permission for us to take a photograph:

Tragically, although developers were initially refused permission to demolish the house and build a retirement home, that decision was overturned due to the new Labour Government’s policy, and before too long this historic building will be no more.

Childhood of John Masefield

The above poem was a wistful memory of his happy early childhood days which were spent in carefree exploration of the beautiful surrounding countryside – all this was to change. His mother was a clergyman’s daughter who tragically died after giving birth to Norah, John’s youngest sister, when he was only 6, and then less than two years later both of his grandparents died. His father, a local solicitor, could not cope and had a nervous breakdown; he too died shortly afterwards.

John was entrusted to the care of a his rather unsympathetic Aunt and Uncle, who simply did not understand children.  They lived at the opposite end of Ledbury, at the Priory,

and I suppose that suddenly finding yourself landed with small relatives, and the task of bring them up, would be rather daunting, so some of their decisions may have been made in a mistaken belief that they were doing the right thing.   However, for John who had loved reading from an early age, it must have been heartbreaking when they removed the library of books from his home in an effort to steer him away from thoughts of a career in writing. He had been educated  at Warwick School (then sometimes referred to to as King’s School), Warwick, from January 1888 to July 1891, but at the age of 13 his Aunt sent him to the training ship Conway in the River Mersey, to begin a life at sea;  at first he was less than enthusiastic, but gradually grew to enjoy the life especially as he found that he had the time and the means  to indulge his passion for reading and learning.  From there, at the age of 16, he gained an apprenticeship on a four masted sailing ship, the Gilcruix, and one of his jobs was to record entries in the ship’s journal every day – something he must have loved!   The ship rounded Cape Horn on it’s way to Chile, and our hero experienced sea sickness in a major way for the first time – nothing new or unexpected in those turbulent waters – but  then on top of that was taken ill at Chile with severe sunburn which forced him to be hospitalised.   He returned to England by steamer as a passenger, where he eventually recovered, and at the insistence of his Aunt, who presumably was still worried that he would waste his life writing,  went back to sea working on a ship bound for New York….where he jumped ship and stayed for several years, initially roaming as a vagrant and taking whatever work he could find before landing a job in a carpet factory. All the while he continued to believe in his ability to write.

This extract from one of his books……..In The Mill……is about that period of his life:

“In a few days I mastered mistake-finding sufficiently to enjoy it very much and do it competently. I was at it all day long, working at speed; well, that was no hardship to me. From childhood, I had been trained to jump to the order; and speed has always seemed to me to be a vital part of efficiency. The continual movement put an end to my day-dreams about the Merchant Service college. I now was moving about all day long, going from floor to floor, stopping a loom, getting another under way, solving some odd error, or causing something to be set right, and having brief words with weavers now and then about the working of their machines. Most of my joy in the work came from its independence. I was the mistake-finder, running the job pretty much as I liked, trusted t do it well, and knowing that I was trusted. The flattery of this was a continual great delight to me; it was my first command, and full of the liveliest interest. No man can be unmoved by the great concerted energy of many men and women. The roaring thundering clang of the energy of the weaving-rooms was a big and exciting thing. Sometimes I felt that it was an enormous dragon and that my mind was going against it with one little purpose, to get at its secret springs and master it.””

It is recorded that John (known at the factory as Macey) was a hard and useful worker, and he gained several promotions, but on the day in 1897 that the Supervisor indicated that “Macey” could be given a large area of the factory to run by himself, he was horrified and immediately collected his pay and caught a merchant ship heading back to England where he threw all his energies into his writing. Initially he reported for newspapers, but his days at sea were frequently on his mind and he wrote many sea poems, including the well-known and evocative Sea Fever:  (later editions of this poem included the word “go* in the first line of each verse – as in “I must go down to the seas again…….”

I must  down to the seas again, to the lonely sea and the sky,

And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by,

And the wheel’s kick and the wind’s song and the white sail’s shaking,

And a gray mist on the sea’s face, and a gray dawn breaking.

 

I must  down to the seas again, for the call of the running tide

Is a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied;

And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying,

And the flung spray and the blown spume, and the sea-gulls crying.

 

I must  down to the seas again, to the vagrant gypsy life,

To the gull’s way and the whale’s way, where the wind’s like a whetted knife;

And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing fellow-rover,

And quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trick’s over.

Marriage and later life

John Masefield was often in ill health, and also suffered with depression which was probably partly due to the fact that he wanted to return to the countryside but had to remain in the city where he had found a low paid job in a bank.  When he was 23 he met Constance de la Cherois-Crommelin, who was 13 years his senior but highly educated and more than a match for his literary mind. She was a descendent of the Hugeunots who had left France to escape the persecution of the Roman Catholic church. She must truly have loved John, to have given up her rich and privileged lifestyle for one of relative poverty, and he adored her. They married in 1903 and had two children, a son and a daughter; with much of the money for day to day living coming from Constance. John worked hard writing book reviews, as well as books and plays but wrote little in the way of poetry but it is reported that on a spring day in 1911 he found some Primroses amongst the woods and heard a voice in his head saying “the spring is beginning.” Some weeks later he was once again out for a walk when suddenly a complete poem formed in his head and after rushing home to write it down “The Everlasting Mercy” was born. This narrative poem was published in October of the same year and received unprecedented attention from the critics.

John Masefield went on to write two more narrative poems and was generally acclaimed to be a genius, with the Edmund de Polignac prize being awarded to him (the monetary value being £100 – a lot in those days) in 1912. Prime Minister Asquith’s daughter’s birthday party in 1913 included such illustrious writers as George Bernard Shaw and Rupert Brooke in the guest list, and John Masefield was also invited.

When war broke out, John Masefield served in the Red Cross initially in France and then later on a hospital ship at Gallipoli, writing vividly about his experiences. When he returned home he was invited to the USA to lecture on Shakespeare and Chaucer and stayed there for about three months. Masefield spent the rest of the war travelling between England and France, at one time being given an assignment to write about the American medical relief forces on the continent, in the hope that it might sway American support for the war effort. Masefield felt that the American presence in France was pretty useless, he did manage to find some heroism in the American Ambulance services and wrote an article which was published in the May 1917 issue of Harper’s Monthly.

John Masefield was asked to meet the head of British Military Intelligence in France and was requested to write a full account of the Battle of the Somme.

During the 1920s, John Masefield and his family found a home near Oxford which was much more suited to his love of the rural life and countryside; he found a new hobby in beekeeping and kept some livestock.

He wrote prodigious amounts, and his works were regularly being published.

When Robert Bridges died in 1930 John Masefield was appointed Poet Laureate – John was unsure that he was worthy of such a post but King George V was persuaded by the Prime Minister that he was ideal and John retained the post until his death in 1967……….not quite beating Tennyson for the title of the longest serving poet laureate. He was also granted the Order of Merit by King George V, and had many honorary degrees from Universities throughout Britain. He not only continued to write, but also encouraged others – especially children, and he only began to slow down a little when he developed cataracts in his 70s

His wife Constance died in 1960 aged 93 after a long illness, and he was so devastated that he became a virtual recluse, although he did continue to write. He himself died in Abingdon on 12th May 1967 from gangrene in his leg, and he was cremated with his ashes being placed in Poets Corner in Westminster Abbey………he was the last poet to be buried there, as there was no more room.

His poems and his writing are truly beautiful and given his desire to encourage children it is appropriate that the secondary school in Ledbury bears his name as a lasting memorial to a son of the little town.

Churches of Ledbury

• St. Michael & All Angels Church - Ledbury

  The lovely Church of St. Michael & All Angels is of vast proportions, which given that back in the 11th century Ledbury was but a small village might seem rather odd, but in fact it served a wide area.  It sits above the town of Ledbury and is one of the seven churches in Herefordshire to have a separate bell tower.

   

   

  The carved oak pulpit was carved by a Rector of Ledbury, The Revd John Jackson, and was completed in 1883.

  In a glass case inside the church there is a sword which is reputed to have belonged to Major Backhouse – a Roundhead who was killed in the Battle of Ledbury in 1645 during the English Civil War.

   

   

   

  

   

   

  Following the market charter being granted to the Bishop of Hereford by King Stephen in 1138, Sunday became not only a day for going to Church but also one for trading and the little cobbled street (which remains mostly unchanged to this day) leading up to the Church would be full of farm animals, and numerous stalls spilled out into the village with fruit, vegetables and other produce. Eventually, trading on a Sunday became discouraged and died out.

  The separate bell tower of St. Michael & All Angels, taken from Church Lane

  

  Font

  There are two fonts, the oldest being 17^th century which was used until the end of the 18^th century when it was presumed lost or destroyed.  In fact it had been broken up into small pieces and was discovered hidden in the base of the replacement font which was made in the 19^th century.  It is now restored to its former glory.

   

  

   

  

  Memorials

  There are many fascinating monuments, and the Biddulph family dominate one corner of the church, with many memorials and a large family vault.

  The Biddulphs came to Ledbury in 1688 when Anthony Biddulph married Constance Hall, great granddaughter of Edward Skynner. The house that they lived in is now called Ledbury Park and was only fairly recently sold out of the family. There are too many monuments to list, but here are some: Anthony and Constance Biddulph who died 1718 and 1706 respectively. Michael Biddulph who died 1880. Robert Biddulph died 1814 – there is a marble carving of his widow Charlotte, along with their children. Other monuments are to William Miles who died 1803 “then shall the dust return to the earth as it was, and the spirit shall return to God who gave it”; Captain Samuel Skynner dated 1725, “he was no mean proficient in Maritime affairs having ben conversant therein for forty years”; Mr. and Mrs. Moulton Barrett whose daughter was the poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning; Canon Thomas Thornton, Master of St. Katherine’s hospital in Ledbury from 1612 until his death in 1629; Edward Cooper, an alabaster slab of a man who was Archdeacon of Hereford and master of St. Katherine’s Hospital in Ledbury who died in 1596; Daniel Saunders – this for me is the most moving of all the monuments in the church, it dates from around 1825 and is by Sir Richard Westmacott. It has been described as follows: “”This monument is intended to commemorate the benevolence of the deceased, and represents the repose of a poor family. The man is seated, leaning on his staff, and affectionately regarding his wife who holds their infant in her arms; at his feet is their dog, the faithful companion of their weary pilgrimage.”

  Rev. Prebendary C.E. Maddison Green R.D

  Bust of Rev. Prebendary C.E. Maddison Green R.D. Plaque to the left for his wife Ella Doveton, eldest child of W.M.R. Haggard of Brackenham Hall, Norfolk. She died 29th March 1921 aged 76

  

   

   

  John Michael Gordon

  John Michael Gordon, Second Baron Biddulph. Last of the family to reside at Ledbury Park. Born 19th November 1869 and died 7th December 1949, and his wife Marjorie Caroline susan, born 30th april 1874, died 9th November 1961

  Part of the large Biddulph family vault

  

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• St. Katherine’s Chapel - Ledbury

  St. Katherine’s Chapel is an extension to the church, and the name relates to Katherine Audley who was born in 1272. Her family was wealthy and she was a cousin of King Edward 11, living in the nearby village of Much Marcle. She had a dream which told her to travel until she found a church where the bells “were ringing of their own accord”, and there she should set down her roots and help the poor and needy. She came to Ledbury with her maid Mabel, and found the bells ringing “of themselves”. She spent the rest of her life in Ledbury, and devoted herself to those in need – she never actually attained Sainthood but nevertheless is referred to as St. Katherine of Ledbury.

  In 1854,  measures were taken to complete the much delayed and desperately needed work of restoration on St. Katherine’s Chapel.

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Buildings in Ledbury

• Upper Hall History

  Upper Hall sits out of sight on the hillside above Ledbury nestling beneath Dog Wood, and has origins which go back to the early thirteenth century, undergoing a few name changes over time, originally being known as Aula Superior, then Over Court, Over Hall and finally Upper Hall. As is the case with many important houses in Herefordshire, Upper Hall is very close to the Church.

  The present building is made up of many additions over the years, following its near destruction in the Civil War. A Jacobean wing was built in the seventeenth century and a Georgian wing in the eighteenth. Later in the eighteenth century these two wings were joined up by a Georgian style house, and later still many Victorian alterations were made. It was originally owned by the Skyppe (also spelt Skippe) family who hailed from Norfolk, and one of the branches of this family who settled in Herefordshire was John Skippe, Bishop of Hereford from 1539 to 1552.

  Alice Skippe married John Willason who leased the estate, and eventually bought it – and Upper Hall, along with other properties in the Ledbury area, passed through the death of Willason’s heir to John Skippe who died in 1619. Following generations of the Skippe family continued to buy land and property in Ledbury, until finally they sold it all in 1812.

  Rev. Reginald Pyndar

  For many years the Rev. Reginald Pyndar, Rector of Madresfield and Magistrate for Hereford, Worcester and Gloucester, and formerly of Worcestershire, was in residence until his death at Upper Hall aged 77 in 1831. In his will, he left his wife Mary “his interest in Upper Hall, with its household goods, plus its land and farming stock” . This, it seems, is of little interest to many local historians who have totally ignored his time at Upper Hall, and who mainly skip straight to the Martin family who came later.

  Mary Pyndar

  In 1841 the widow Mary lived at Upper Hall with two daughters, Elizabeth and Mary and 80 year old Colonel Cope, with the following servants:

  M. Oats	56
  Mary Kea	40
  Hannah Bourne	30
  Mary Callowhill	40
  Elizabeth Guerney	25
  Mary Howell	20
  Elizabeth Hollis	20
  William Hammond	35
  John Jones	20
  Edward Mun	20
  William Grove	25
  James Kirkland	20

   

  Mary had a keen interest in the plight of the blind, and became actively involved in charity work to fund instruction for same; she was clearly a very well loved lady and was greatly missed after her death at Upper Hall in 1849.

  The Martin family at Upper Hall

  The new owners were the Martins of banking fame (Martins Bank eventually merged with Barclays), and they carried out a vast amount of work in the grounds, completing transforming it into beautiful parkland with many specimen trees, some of which were imported specially from abroad. The main drive was relocated through the grounds so that visitors could not fail to notice, and be impressed by the surroundings. Horticulture was very important to the family, and in the summer of 1867 the first Ledbury Cottage Gardening Society show was held in the grounds of Upper Hall and it drew a huge entry. Fortunately the weather was good, and thousands of visitors thronged to admire not only the entries but also exhibits by locals in the form of Mrs. Biddulph, the Earl Somers, and J. Ensley, and also to listen to three bands. There was the Ledbury Rifle Corps; a brass band, and a fife and drum band. Thomas Bennett, Head Gardener at Upper Hall was frequently asked to judge at other local gardening shows, but on this occasion it was the gardeners from neighbouring houses who carried out judging duties.

  The Martins enjoyed their country pursuits, and the Ledbury Hunt regularly held their meets in the grounds; many years later in 1900 the Master of Ledbury Hunt, H.M. Wilson leased Upper Hall for roughly three years.

  John Martin was born in 1805, and married Mary Morse with whom he had one daughter, Elinor Traherne. Mary died, and John then married her cousin, Maria Henrietta in 1847 who bore him both sons and daughters. She died in 1865.
  In 1875, Elinor Traherne, the eldest daughter of John Martin of Upper Hall, married the Rev. F.W. Holland who was vicar of Evesham, then two years later in August 1877 A.H.Martin, the eldest son married Georgina Maude whose father was the late Colonel G. Haines of the Madras Army. She was also granddaughter of Field Marshal Viscount Gough. They married at Rathronar Church, Clonmel in Ireland.

  John Martin dies at Upper Hall 1880

  John Martin, banker and former Liberal MP for Tewkesbury died at Upper Hall aged 75. Apart from Upper Hall, he also had properties in London – 68 Lombard Street, and 14 Berkeley Square.
  In his Will, he left to his eldest son, Waldyve Alexander Hamilton Martin, all his estates in Herefordshire and Warwickshire except for the mines, minerals, clay and sand. Another son, Hugo Hamilton Martin was left £15,000, and likewise his youngest child when reaching 21. Son John Evan Martin was left £30,000 and his daughters Edith and Ada £17,000 each. Daughters Nora and Frances gained an extra £500, and his eldest daughter Elinor Traherne Holland succeeded under settlement to properties in Colwall and Coddington.

  April 1884 – Marriage of Francis Hamilton Martin

  The marriage was arranged between Alexander Baillie of Chudleigh, Devon, and Francis Hamilton Martin of Upper Hall, youngest daughter of John Martin deceased; the ceremony taking took place in August the same year. In the press, a lovely happy picture is painted of the couple being showered with slippers and rice as they left for their honeymoon in Scotland, after which the Ledbury Fife and Drum band played for the guests at Upper Hall, whilst the Ledbury church bells pealed merrily for hours.

  November 1886 – Marriage announcement for Waldyve A.H. Martin

  An announcement was made that a marriage had been arranged between Waldyve A.H. Martin and Miss Francis Hanbury-Williams of Coldbrook Park, Monmouthshire

  February 1888 – Marriage of Nora Hamilton Martin

  Marriage of Nora Hamilton Martin to Charles Harvey Palairet, at St. Peters, Eaton Square

  February 1888 – Auction of rare books from Library at Upper Hall

  Sothebys auction many rare books and manuscripts from the libraries of Waldyve .A.H. Martin at Upper Hall. One can only hazard a guess as to why this had been necessary – perhaps the relentless society weddings in the family were taking their toll on the coffers!

  1889 – Marriage of John E.H. Martin

  Marriage arranged between John E.H. Martin, youngest son of John Martin, and Miss Charlotte Ethel Long, third daughter of the late Richard Penruddocks Long. They married at Bicester in 1889, and immediately after the wedding breakfast, along with many of the party, they hunted with the Bicester Hounds who had especially delayed the time of the Meet.

  February 1890 – Elizabeth Barret Browning Memorial in Ledbury

  Waldyve Martin in residence at Upper Hall, and proving himself to be an active campaigner for the Elizabeth Barret Browning memorial in Ledbury.
  “the large and very quaint Elizabethan market house in Ledbury, built upon sixteen substantial pillars, was crowded to excess by enthusiastic town folk when it was unanimously resolved that a Barrett Browning memorial clock tower should be erected in the centre of the town.

  The money raised by the some two and a half thousand people reached around £500 – the same amount again was required, and it was decided that the numberless admirers of the “greatest poetess that ever lived” should be asked to help. Mr. Barrett lived at Hope End, just two miles out of Ledbury and took an active religious and social interest in the town

  The plea to the papers:
  “may I be allowed to plead in your columns for assistance, and remind your readers that old Ledbury lies nestled neath “those beautiful, beautiful hills”, and that our immediate locality when looking its best in leafy June, certainly suggests the lines engraved on the memories of thousands….
  Green the land is where my daily
  Steps in jocund childhood played
  Dimpled close with hill and valley
  Dappled very close with shade
  Summer snow of apple blossoms
  Running up from glade to glade
  Donations could be sent, amongst others, to Waldyve A.H. Martin at Upper Hall.

  The money was raised and the memorial Clock tower was built. The building currently houses the public library.

   

  

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

  This photo also shows a corner of the market house as mentioned above.

  Amongst other talents, Waldyve was an accomplished artist.

  May 1893 – Marriage of Hugo Martin

  Hugo Martin, second son of the late John Martin, arranges marriage to Mary Cecilia, youngest daughter of the late Captain Coventry, and married in August at Leigh Church near Malvern

  August 1895 – Church window memorial for John Martin

  Ledbury church reopens after a year of alterations, which included a stained glass East window to the memory of John Martin, and also to his first and second wife, along with the first wife of W.A.H. Martin.

  Upper Hall Household and servants 1891

  Waldyve H. Martin	36	J.P. living on own means, b. London
  Frances Martin	34	Wife b. France (British Subject)
  George D. Martin	11	Son b. France
  Alick G. Martin	8	Son b. Ireland
  Evan H. Martin	7	Son b. Coates, Gloucestershire
  John H. Martin	1	Son b. Ledbury, Herefordshire
  Elizabeth Williams	70	Visitor b. Gloucestershire
  Hellen Dunn	20	Lady’s Maid for above, b. South Cerney, Gloucestershire
  Lizzie M. Thomson	26	Governess b. India (British Subject)
  Edwin Carr	34	Butler b. St. Albans, Hertfordshire
  Ellen Carr	34	Lady’s Maid b. Isle of Wight
  Jane Atkinson	52	Cook b. Berkshire
  Henrietta Hicks	25	Nurse b. Leytonstone, Essex`
  Harriet River	35	Housemaid b. Norfolk
  Alice Robinson	19	Housemaid b. Leominster, Herefordshire
  Ellen Stephens	19	Kitchenmaid, b. Ledbury, Herefordshire
  Mary L. Stidwell	15	Nursemaid b. London
  Peter Ryan	23	Footman b. Ireland
  John P. Heath	19	Footman b. Monmouth

  Upper Hall Household and servants 1911

  Waldyve Hamilton Martin	56	Living on private means b. St. Georges, Hanover Square, London
  Ernest Richard Shakesheff	34	Butler b. Ledbury, Herefordshire
  Francis Charles Load	19	Domestic Houseboy b. Ledbury, Herefordshire
  Hannah James	38	Cook b. Shropshire
  Gertrude Caroline Saunders	23	Kitchenmaid b. Norfolk
  Edith Elizabeth Craske	34	Housemaid b. Norfolk
  Mildred Mary Stebbings	19	Housemaid b. Norfolk

   

  I am fascinated by the fact that out of six servants, three of them came from Norfolk.

   

  During WW1, Upper Hall was turned into a hospital for wounded soldiers, and Waldyve and his wife took an active part in the proceedings.

  By 1920, this large and imposing mansion had ended its life as a family residence, and was sold to Herefordshire Council who converted it to what became known as Ledbury Grammar School.

  In WW11 it again took on the mantle of hospital for wounded soldiers, after which it was extended and carried on life as a school, including post 1978 when for a time it became part of John Masefield High School, accommodating 11 to 13 year olds.

  In the late 1990s, after some years of being neglected, Upper Hall was sold to a London solicitor, who converted it, and all the outbuildings, to private apartments.

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• Ledbury Union Workhouse

  The Ledbury Union Workhouse was designed by George Wilkinson and built in 1836 in Union Lane and was opened the following year, (Union Lane is now renamed Orchard Road). The Workhouse had the innovation of water closets, and was in the classic cross shape to enable easy segregation of inmates – the elderly and infirm in one part; males in another, females, and lastly children. Ledbury took inmates from the following surrounding villages: Ashperton, Aylton, Bosbury, Canon Frome, Castle Frome, Coddington, Colwall, Donnington, Bishops Frome, Little Marcle, Munsley, Much Marcle, Pixley, Putley, Stretton Grandison, Tarrington, Woolhope, Yarkhill, and Mathon and Malvern from Worcestershire, the border being a short distance from Ledbury.

   

   

   

   

  

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

  It could accommodate up to 150 inmates so was slightly larger than the Abbey Dore Workhouse, and was by all accounts far stricter. As with all Workhouses, once anyone entered Ledbury they would be stripped of their clothes and scrubbed, then dressed in a uniform.

  In accordance with the Poor Law Amendment Act of 1834 conditions inside a Workhouse had to be far worse than any the applicants might experience outside, with less food of lower quality. Whenever a man was forced to enter the workhouse, he had to take all his family with him, but they were then immediately split up and spent the rest of their time apart in different parts of the complex, only being reunited once they left. This was perhaps a very cruel rule, but it was designed to ensure that nobody became too settle and comfortable!

  In Ledbury Workhouse a bell was rung throughout the day to alert inmates to the next routine, and this bell can be seen (and rung with permission) in the Butchers Row Museum in Ledbury.

   

   

   

  

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

  Workhouse News

  The following news items relate to the Ledbury Union Workhouse:

  Refusal to break Stones

  In July 1835 Caroline Hodges and Catherine Thomas of Ledbury Union Workhouse were charged with refusing to break a quantity of stones… They were committed to Hereford Gaol for 14 days hard labour

  Riotous and Disorderly Conduct

  On 8th July 1846 at the Ledbury Petty Sessions court Mr. Law, Master of the Ledbury Union Workhouse charged an old woman, Caroline Jones, with riotous and disorderly conduct on the previous Sunday in the Chapel, when she called him and the porter abusive names,  and at the same time exposed her person. Committed to Hereford Gaol for 21 days hard labour.

  Christmas Day in the Workhouse

  January 1848 – The guardians of the Ledbury Union Workhouse proudly announced that on Christmas Day they regaled the inmates with a superb dinner of roast beef, plum pudding and cider, for which they were all most grateful.

  Violent and Abusive Behaviour in the Workhouse

  September 1862 – Amelia Lancett, chargeable to the parish of Bosbury, was summoned by Mr. Meredith, Master of the Workhouse for having behaved badly with violent and disorderly behaviour in the workhouse, by breaking the windows and using filthy and obscene language to the Governess and others. Committed for 21 days hard labour

  New Year Treat for Inmates

  January 1887 – Annual New Years treat was given to inmates…..through the efforts of Master and Matron, Mr. and Mrs. Henry Morgan a concert was given . A capital programme was gone through and highly appreciated. After the concert, dancing and other amusements were enjoyed by young and old and a very enjoyable evening was spent.

  August 1891 – Mrs Ballard and the Messrs Ballard of the Winnings Colwall, made a yearly event of a treat for the inmates, which included dinner and tea at their home. Always referred to as a treat.

  Ledbury Union Workhouse Staff and Inmates 1841 Census

  Christopher Jones	45	Master
  Harriet Jones	35	Matron
  Selina Jones	3	Daughter
  Ann Jones	9 mths	Daughter
  Sophia Hodges	25	Nurse
  Thomas Badsey	20	Baker
  William Heys	50	Postman
  Mary Boulter	25	Servant
  Thomas Boulter	5	Son
  Joseph Boulter	1	Son
  Ellenor Beck	80
  Martha Cale	55
  Thomas Davis	8
  Ann Derrick	60
  Thomas Adams	13
  William Amphlett	50
  James Hooper	75
  Hannah Hest	10
  Mary Hest	8
  Jane Hest	6
  Hannah Hope	30
  William Hope	8
  James Hope	6
  Emma Hope	2
  Elizabeth Hodges	15
  Ann Hill	75
  Sarah Haylings	25
  Thomas Morris	10
  Roseanna Fletcher	10
  Ann Hyde	30
  George Hyde	3
  Ann Jenks	6
  Thomas Hunt	7
  Daniel Matthew	40
  Francis Webster	60
  Jenetta Pantall	25
  James Pantall	7
  William Pantall	5
  Frederick Pantall	1
  John Pantall	80
  William Roberts	60
  Joseph Roberts	60
  Henry Tompkins	60
  Ann Tompkins	60
  Edward Gibbons	8
  Susan Protherus	40
  Ann Protherus	12
  Comfort Protherus
  John Protherus	5
  Emma Protherus	1
  John Yeats	75
  Ellen Brookes	13
  William Dutson	50
  Ann Hill	35
  James Hill	8
  Samuel Hill	6
  Eliza Hill	9 mths
  William Jenkins	10
  Richard Jenkins	6
  James Pritchard	85
  Sarah Heywood	9
  Richard Saunders	75
  James Davis	65
  John Jones	65
  Thomas Jones	6
  Caroline Jones	8
  William Herbutt	6
  Sarah Taylor	20
  John Taylor	11
  James Munn	6
  William Munn	3
  Joseph Howell	20
  Harriet Williams	13
  William Farley	7
  Margaret Morris	7
  Thomas Potter	14
  Caroline Sandford	10
  Susan Sandford	7
  Thomas Sandford	4
  John Saunders	14
  Mary Toney	10
  Daniel Suff (?)	3
  Maria Turner	55
  Caroline Morgan	20
  John Davies	50
  Elizabeth Griffiths	60
  Maria Lissiman	35
  Elizabeth Lissiman	9
  Maria Lissiman	6
  Mary Mason	75
  John Eustius	13
  Louisa Eustius	13
  Thomas Holder	5
  Jane Hill	25
  Benjamin Jenkinson
  Ann Lancett	35
  John Lancett	7
  Amelia Lancett	2

   

  Read More >

People of Ledbury

• John Masefield

  John Masefield – Herefordshire’s much loved poet.

  On Eastnor Knoll by John Masefield

  SILENT are the woods, and the dim green boughs are

  Hushed in the twilight: yonder, in the path through

  The apple orchard, is a tired plough-boy

  Calling the cows home.

   

  A bright white star blinks, the pale moon rounds, but

  Still the red, lurid wreckage of the sunset

  Smoulders in smoky fire, and burns on

  The misty hill-tops.

   

  Ghostly it grows, and darker, the burning

  Fades into smoke, and now the gusty oaks are

  A silent army of phantoms thronging

  A land of shadows.

  John Masefield was born on 1st June 1878 in Ledbury, Herefordshire, in a house called The Knapp which was built by his father at the top end of town (The Homend).  The house is now difficult to spot as it is well hidden behind tall trees.  However, a member of the Masefield family owned and lived in the house at the time that I first wrote this, and he kindly gave permission for us to take a photograph:

  

   

  Tragically, although developers were initially refused permission to demolish the house and build a retirement home, that decision was overturned due to the new Labour Government’s policy, and before too long this historic building will be no more.

  Childhood of John Masefield

  The above poem was a wistful memory of his happy early childhood days which were spent in carefree exploration of the beautiful surrounding countryside – all this was to change. His mother was a clergyman’s daughter who tragically died after giving birth to Norah, John’s youngest sister, when he was only 6, and then less than two years later both of his grandparents died. His father, a local solicitor, could not cope and had a nervous breakdown; he too died shortly afterwards.

  John was entrusted to the care of a his rather unsympathetic Aunt and Uncle, who simply did not understand children.  They lived at the opposite end of Ledbury, at the Priory,

  

  and I suppose that suddenly finding yourself landed with small relatives, and the task of bring them up, would be rather daunting, so some of their decisions may have been made in a mistaken belief that they were doing the right thing.   However, for John who had loved reading from an early age, it must have been heartbreaking when they removed the library of books from his home in an effort to steer him away from thoughts of a career in writing. He had been educated  at Warwick School (then sometimes referred to to as King’s School), Warwick, from January 1888 to July 1891, but at the age of 13 his Aunt sent him to the training ship Conway in the River Mersey, to begin a life at sea;  at first he was less than enthusiastic, but gradually grew to enjoy the life especially as he found that he had the time and the means  to indulge his passion for reading and learning.  From there, at the age of 16, he gained an apprenticeship on a four masted sailing ship, the Gilcruix, and one of his jobs was to record entries in the ship’s journal every day – something he must have loved!   The ship rounded Cape Horn on it’s way to Chile, and our hero experienced sea sickness in a major way for the first time – nothing new or unexpected in those turbulent waters – but  then on top of that was taken ill at Chile with severe sunburn which forced him to be hospitalised.   He returned to England by steamer as a passenger, where he eventually recovered, and at the insistence of his Aunt, who presumably was still worried that he would waste his life writing,  went back to sea working on a ship bound for New York….where he jumped ship and stayed for several years, initially roaming as a vagrant and taking whatever work he could find before landing a job in a carpet factory. All the while he continued to believe in his ability to write.

  This extract from one of his books……..In The Mill……is about that period of his life:

  “In a few days I mastered mistake-finding sufficiently to enjoy it very much and do it competently. I was at it all day long, working at speed; well, that was no hardship to me. From childhood, I had been trained to jump to the order; and speed has always seemed to me to be a vital part of efficiency. The continual movement put an end to my day-dreams about the Merchant Service college. I now was moving about all day long, going from floor to floor, stopping a loom, getting another under way, solving some odd error, or causing something to be set right, and having brief words with weavers now and then about the working of their machines. Most of my joy in the work came from its independence. I was the mistake-finder, running the job pretty much as I liked, trusted t do it well, and knowing that I was trusted. The flattery of this was a continual great delight to me; it was my first command, and full of the liveliest interest. No man can be unmoved by the great concerted energy of many men and women. The roaring thundering clang of the energy of the weaving-rooms was a big and exciting thing. Sometimes I felt that it was an enormous dragon and that my mind was going against it with one little purpose, to get at its secret springs and master it.””

  It is recorded that John (known at the factory as Macey) was a hard and useful worker, and he gained several promotions, but on the day in 1897 that the Supervisor indicated that “Macey” could be given a large area of the factory to run by himself, he was horrified and immediately collected his pay and caught a merchant ship heading back to England where he threw all his energies into his writing. Initially he reported for newspapers, but his days at sea were frequently on his mind and he wrote many sea poems, including the well-known and evocative Sea Fever:  (later editions of this poem included the word “go* in the first line of each verse – as in “I must go down to the seas again…….”

  I must  down to the seas again, to the lonely sea and the sky,

  And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by,

  And the wheel’s kick and the wind’s song and the white sail’s shaking,

  And a gray mist on the sea’s face, and a gray dawn breaking.

   

  I must  down to the seas again, for the call of the running tide

  Is a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied;

  And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying,

  And the flung spray and the blown spume, and the sea-gulls crying.

   

  I must  down to the seas again, to the vagrant gypsy life,

  To the gull’s way and the whale’s way, where the wind’s like a whetted knife;

  And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing fellow-rover,

  And quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trick’s over.

  Marriage and later life

  John Masefield was often in ill health, and also suffered with depression which was probably partly due to the fact that he wanted to return to the countryside but had to remain in the city where he had found a low paid job in a bank.  When he was 23 he met Constance de la Cherois-Crommelin, who was 13 years his senior but highly educated and more than a match for his literary mind. She was a descendent of the Hugeunots who had left France to escape the persecution of the Roman Catholic church. She must truly have loved John, to have given up her rich and privileged lifestyle for one of relative poverty, and he adored her. They married in 1903 and had two children, a son and a daughter; with much of the money for day to day living coming from Constance. John worked hard writing book reviews, as well as books and plays but wrote little in the way of poetry but it is reported that on a spring day in 1911 he found some Primroses amongst the woods and heard a voice in his head saying “the spring is beginning.” Some weeks later he was once again out for a walk when suddenly a complete poem formed in his head and after rushing home to write it down “The Everlasting Mercy” was born. This narrative poem was published in October of the same year and received unprecedented attention from the critics.

  John Masefield went on to write two more narrative poems and was generally acclaimed to be a genius, with the Edmund de Polignac prize being awarded to him (the monetary value being £100 – a lot in those days) in 1912. Prime Minister Asquith’s daughter’s birthday party in 1913 included such illustrious writers as George Bernard Shaw and Rupert Brooke in the guest list, and John Masefield was also invited.

  When war broke out, John Masefield served in the Red Cross initially in France and then later on a hospital ship at Gallipoli, writing vividly about his experiences. When he returned home he was invited to the USA to lecture on Shakespeare and Chaucer and stayed there for about three months. Masefield spent the rest of the war travelling between England and France, at one time being given an assignment to write about the American medical relief forces on the continent, in the hope that it might sway American support for the war effort. Masefield felt that the American presence in France was pretty useless, he did manage to find some heroism in the American Ambulance services and wrote an article which was published in the May 1917 issue of Harper’s Monthly.

  John Masefield was asked to meet the head of British Military Intelligence in France and was requested to write a full account of the Battle of the Somme.

  During the 1920s, John Masefield and his family found a home near Oxford which was much more suited to his love of the rural life and countryside; he found a new hobby in beekeeping and kept some livestock.

  He wrote prodigious amounts, and his works were regularly being published.

  When Robert Bridges died in 1930 John Masefield was appointed Poet Laureate – John was unsure that he was worthy of such a post but King George V was persuaded by the Prime Minister that he was ideal and John retained the post until his death in 1967……….not quite beating Tennyson for the title of the longest serving poet laureate. He was also granted the Order of Merit by King George V, and had many honorary degrees from Universities throughout Britain. He not only continued to write, but also encouraged others – especially children, and he only began to slow down a little when he developed cataracts in his 70s

  His wife Constance died in 1960 aged 93 after a long illness, and he was so devastated that he became a virtual recluse, although he did continue to write. He himself died in Abingdon on 12th May 1967 from gangrene in his leg, and he was cremated with his ashes being placed in Poets Corner in Westminster Abbey………he was the last poet to be buried there, as there was no more room.

  His poems and his writing are truly beautiful and given his desire to encourage children it is appropriate that the secondary school in Ledbury bears his name as a lasting memorial to a son of the little town.

  Read More >

News from the Past Ledbury

• Ledbury News from the Past

  The Civil War, railway tunnels, market hall, gas lighting and much more

  1645 – The Civil War

  During the Civil War, the local families of the Hoptons and the Kyrles favoured Parliament.

  On 12th November 1645 – 60 of Scudamore’s Horse were chased through Ledbury by Major Hopton.

  Battle of Ledbury

  Battle of Ledbury: Prince Rupert fought and beat the Roundheads in a fierce skirmish. (Bullet holes from this battle can still be seen in the oak panelled dining room of the Talbot Hotel.)

  1692 – There was a large fire in Ledbury.

  1695 – The poor of Ledbury were provided with coal, or money, but in return were forced to wear a “bagge” (badge) which proclaimed “this signifieth that I am reduced to poverty”. Not wearing this badge meant no more money or coal!

  1735 – Turnpike Riots.

  Several turnpikes were destroyed, there was much violence and some rioters died.

  Thomas Reynolds of Ledbury

  Thomas Reynolds of Ledbury was executed at Tyburn, and a woman to whom he had shown kindness provided his shroud and coffin once he was cut down. Just before he was to be put in the ground, it was noticed that he was still breathing, and he was given brandy and bled by a surgeon (just what he needed after being hung!), but he died shortly after and was buried by the Oxford Road.

  Cloth Making  and Tanning in Ledbury

  Cloth making was an important trade, as was tanning with the tan pits being well supplied by the large woods surrounding Ledbury. The Workhouse inmates made pins, and the women of Ledbury made gloves in their own homes.

  1824 – Dirty Ledbury

  “The Homend in Ledbury from end to end was studded with 20 to 30 dung heaps on either side, the road covered in filth and the drains running on the surface. From the month of October to January, the noise occasioned by the killing of pigs in the High Street, and the danger to passengers from the fires for singeing them deterred travellers from passing through the town”.

  By 1831  “the disagreeable practice of slaughtering pigs in the street” had been abolished.

  1844 – Ledbury Shops Amend Closing Times

  The drapers of Ledbury, along with those in other towns in Herefordshire, agreed to close at 7 in the evening, except for Tuesdays and Saturdays.

  The public was asked not to bang on the doors after this time, and it was hoped that grocers and other shopkeepers would follow suit so that the shop assistants could have some sort of life in the evenings!

  1844 – Canal Extends to Croom Pitch

  The Herefordshire and Gloucestershire Canal was opened as far as Croom Pitch in January 1844, and immediately that place became a thriving trading place.

  It was expected that within a few weeks the canal would be opened as far as Withington within 4 miles of Hereford, which would mean that Herefordians could become regular customers for Staffordshire coal, as well as availing themselves of an easy mode of transport for goods.

  1844 – Disturbance in Ledbury

  In April 1844, Ledbury residents were woken by shouts of “thieves, robbers……..assistance”, and rushed out fully expecting to discover Rebeccaites or Chartists.

  One went armed with a large kitchen poker;  another with a broom, and a third described as being like a Waterloo hero, brandishing a sword and shouting “bring them to me and I’ll run them through”.

  When the excitement died down, it was discovered that someone had tried to break into the warehouse of Mr. H. Symonds, a grocer in the High Street;  Mr. Hall, a glazier, whose house was close to Mr. Symonds,  had heard some sort of noise in the yard and gave the alarm, which led to the general panic as described!

  The would be thieves had of course long gone, but Mr. Hall worked out that they would go up Church Lane and followed armed with a poker, whereupon he did indeed see one of the thieves, and managed to hit him.  Mr. S. Pedlington held him down, whilst a search was made in the Tanyard, where they found another man under a tan basket.  A third was eventually tracked down.

  The three thieves were notorious young hooligans, aged only around 12 or 13, by the names of Hoare, Lane and Brydges.  Sadly there was not enough evidence to convict them of theft, but nevertheless Hoare and Lane were sent to prison for two months as rogues and vagabonds, whilst Brydges was lucky to be discharged.

  1844 – Ledbury Butcher Outwitted

  A certain butcher found a large dog in his shop, which had torn and spoiled the breasts of a calf which was hanging there.

  After asking around, he discovered that the dog belonged to a professional gentleman who lived nearby, so off went the butcher to his house where he was asked in.

  The butcher said that he had “come to have a little of his advice, if agreeable”.

  The man replied, “quite agreeable, have the kindness to state your case”.

  The butcher then proceeded to relate the tale of the dog, and the professional chap listened and then asked how much was the damage to the meat.

  The reply was “four shillings and sixpence”, and the money was instantly paid.  The happy butcher walked away in triumph, but then heard a voice……. “Stop, you have to pay me six shillings and eightpence for my advice”

  Imagine, reader, a sky all brightness and sunshine, and then think of its being suddenly overspread with clouds and darkness;  thus may you be able to form some idea of the transformation which came over the butcher’s face;  the knight of the cleaver walked away muttering unutterable things!

  1845 – John Biddulp Interred in Ledbury Church

  John Biddulph’s coffin was placed amongst his ancestors in the family vault in Ledbury church after a simple funeral.

  He was remembered as a rich but very good man, who would be dreadfully missed by many including the poor of the town who had lost one of their greatest friends and benefactors.

  Most of the shops and houses in Ledbury closed their shutters, and a feeling of genuine grief engulfed the town.

  1845 – Child burnt to Death in Workhouse

  Thomas Saunders, a young boy and inmate of the Ledbury Union Workhouse, was burnt to death when his clothes caught fire.

  1847 – Ledbury gets Gas Lights

  On the first Sunday in January 1847 the newly installed gas lights in Ledbury were lit for the first time:

  “The town changed from heaviness and gloom to cheerfulness and light.  The event was hailed by feelings of unanimous joy throughout the whole of the town, and notwithstanding the sacredness of  the day, the bells commenced their gayest notes immediately on the completion of the illumination”

  This new lighting was considered to be the first step in the improvement of Ledbury, however in 1862 the lights were no longer being lit due to a disagreement between the inspectors.

  The suggestion of a rate was not well received, but three men, nameley G. Masefield, V. Barber and R. Edy formed a committe for canvassing Ledbury for subscriptions for lighting the lamps, of which there were 40, from early September to the beginning of December, when a rate would be made.

  The amount needed was £37, and the committee were confident that the money would be quickly raised, by which time it was hoped that the rows that caused the darkness in Ledbury would have blown over.

  1854 – Mail Cart from Ledbury to Hereford

  The discontinuation of the London Mail coach from Hereford to Ledbury caused a great deal of inconvenience, and efforts were being made to establish a new Mail Cart to go From Ledbury to Hereford each morning, returning each evening.

  1857 – Ledbury Market Hall Crumbling

  Ledbury Market Hall was so dilapidated that it was in danger of falling down, but only £62 of the £250 needed had been raised.  An appeal was sent out to the 16,000 people in and around the Ledbury area.

  1857 – Small Pox in Ledbury

  Small Pox was very prevalent in 1857 in Ledbury and the surrounding area.  The Guardians set about putting up large posters to inform people of the free vaccination available.

  1857 – Man Suffocates on Canal Boat at Ledbury

  Alfred Dowling, aged around 16, was working for William Greenway the owner of a canal boat.

  One evening after rather a lot to drink, Alfred lit a fire in the fore deck of his master’s boat which was lying in the canal near to Bye Street bridge, Ledbury.  The warmth from the fire plus the effects of drink soon sent him to sleep, and during the night someone closed the hatchway lid, confining the poor chap to a tiny unventilated space.

  When the hatchway was opened next morning, Alfred was still alive…….just, but in spite of attentions from a surgeon, he died shortly afterwards.

  1858 – The Railway Line at Ledbury Progresses

  The works on the railway line near to Homend turnpike, Ledbury were progressing well with more than 80 men being employed.

  The ballast had been made for some distance, the the considerable hight of the embankment could clearly be seen from the Hereford road.

  1859 – The Railway Works at Ledbury

  Contractors of the Worcester and Hereford Railway were working as fast as they could;  sheds and shopping for the use of masons, smiths etc. were being built next to the canal and adjoining the railway works, whilst huge machinery for making mortar etc. was being brought in.

  A great many men were being employed on the building of the railway, and it was thought that work on the “monster viaducts” would soon commence.

  1861 – The Ledbury Railway Tunnel Opens

  An engine went through the tunnel for the first time, gaily decorated with flags and people from Ledbury along with the contractors, happily celbrated the event with copious amounts of sherry!

  However, although the engine went through the tunnel very carefully and slowly, the two front wheels came off the line,  (trains to this day have to be extremely cautious when negotiating this tunnel), but as there were so many workmen around they soon had it back on the tracks.  The engine worked thereafter, taking soil from the Eastnor end of the tunnel to the viaduct at Ledbury.

  In the same week, part of the Colwall Tunnel fell in, burying several men who were bricking part of the tunnel at No. 3 shaft.  Two men were dug out alive, but it was thought that another man was dead.

  1863 – Railway Accident at Ledbury

  One of the trucks of a goods train running from Hereford to Lebury, came off the rails at the Bush Pitch cutting by the viaduct, and was dragged for a distance until the driver stopped the train.  He uncoupled the truck and attaching it separately to the engine, took it into Ledbury station yard, leaving the rest of the train on the track near to the viaduct.

  Meanwhile, at Ashperton station, Mr. Makepeace neglected to stop another train even though he had not received the signal of “line clear” from Ledbury, and this train approached the stationary trucks at the viaduct with great speed.  The driver, Mr. Bridgeman saw the trucks at the last minute, and shutting off the steam, reversed the engine then jumped off onto the embankment as did the stoker and guard – thankfully none of them were hurt.

  A terrible crash then took place, with the engine being wrecked as well as the guard’s van and four or five trucks.  The line was torn up for two or three lengths of metal and the cost of the crash was estimated at between £600 and £700 pounds.

  1860 – New Cemetery in |Ledbury

  Messrs. McCann and Averal, builders from Great Malvern had their tender accepted for the erection of chapels and a sexton’s residence at this cemetery, and the Ledbury Burial Board requested that work should be commenced immediately.

  1862 – Freemasonry in Ledbury

  Freemasonry was making much progress in Herefordshire, and Lodges had been established in Hereford, Ross, Leominster and Ledbury, and were progressing very satisfactorily.

  The brethren were getting reading to celebrate the centenary anniversary of the Hereford Palladian Lodge in October.

   

  In Brief:

  During the nineteenth century there were five coopers; four tanners; six maltsters; three curriers; ten boot makers, one portrait painter and seven schools.

  Read More >

1645 – The Civil War

During the Civil War, the local families of the Hoptons and the Kyrles favoured Parliament.

On 12th November 1645 – 60 of Scudamore’s Horse were chased through Ledbury by Major Hopton.

Battle of Ledbury

Battle of Ledbury: Prince Rupert fought and beat the Roundheads in a fierce skirmish. (Bullet holes from this battle can still be seen in the oak panelled dining room of the Talbot Hotel.)

1692 – There was a large fire in Ledbury.

1695 – The poor of Ledbury were provided with coal, or money, but in return were forced to wear a “bagge” (badge) which proclaimed “this signifieth that I am reduced to poverty”. Not wearing this badge meant no more money or coal!

1735 – Turnpike Riots.

Several turnpikes were destroyed, there was much violence and some rioters died.

Thomas Reynolds of Ledbury

Thomas Reynolds of Ledbury was executed at Tyburn, and a woman to whom he had shown kindness provided his shroud and coffin once he was cut down. Just before he was to be put in the ground, it was noticed that he was still breathing, and he was given brandy and bled by a surgeon (just what he needed after being hung!), but he died shortly after and was buried by the Oxford Road.

Cloth Making  and Tanning in Ledbury

Cloth making was an important trade, as was tanning with the tan pits being well supplied by the large woods surrounding Ledbury. The Workhouse inmates made pins, and the women of Ledbury made gloves in their own homes.

1824 – Dirty Ledbury

“The Homend in Ledbury from end to end was studded with 20 to 30 dung heaps on either side, the road covered in filth and the drains running on the surface. From the month of October to January, the noise occasioned by the killing of pigs in the High Street, and the danger to passengers from the fires for singeing them deterred travellers from passing through the town”.

By 1831  “the disagreeable practice of slaughtering pigs in the street” had been abolished.

1844 – Ledbury Shops Amend Closing Times

The drapers of Ledbury, along with those in other towns in Herefordshire, agreed to close at 7 in the evening, except for Tuesdays and Saturdays.

The public was asked not to bang on the doors after this time, and it was hoped that grocers and other shopkeepers would follow suit so that the shop assistants could have some sort of life in the evenings!

1844 – Canal Extends to Croom Pitch

The Herefordshire and Gloucestershire Canal was opened as far as Croom Pitch in January 1844, and immediately that place became a thriving trading place.

It was expected that within a few weeks the canal would be opened as far as Withington within 4 miles of Hereford, which would mean that Herefordians could become regular customers for Staffordshire coal, as well as availing themselves of an easy mode of transport for goods.

1844 – Disturbance in Ledbury

In April 1844, Ledbury residents were woken by shouts of “thieves, robbers……..assistance”, and rushed out fully expecting to discover Rebeccaites or Chartists.

One went armed with a large kitchen poker;  another with a broom, and a third described as being like a Waterloo hero, brandishing a sword and shouting “bring them to me and I’ll run them through”.

When the excitement died down, it was discovered that someone had tried to break into the warehouse of Mr. H. Symonds, a grocer in the High Street;  Mr. Hall, a glazier, whose house was close to Mr. Symonds,  had heard some sort of noise in the yard and gave the alarm, which led to the general panic as described!

The would be thieves had of course long gone, but Mr. Hall worked out that they would go up Church Lane and followed armed with a poker, whereupon he did indeed see one of the thieves, and managed to hit him.  Mr. S. Pedlington held him down, whilst a search was made in the Tanyard, where they found another man under a tan basket.  A third was eventually tracked down.

The three thieves were notorious young hooligans, aged only around 12 or 13, by the names of Hoare, Lane and Brydges.  Sadly there was not enough evidence to convict them of theft, but nevertheless Hoare and Lane were sent to prison for two months as rogues and vagabonds, whilst Brydges was lucky to be discharged.

1844 – Ledbury Butcher Outwitted

A certain butcher found a large dog in his shop, which had torn and spoiled the breasts of a calf which was hanging there.

After asking around, he discovered that the dog belonged to a professional gentleman who lived nearby, so off went the butcher to his house where he was asked in.

The butcher said that he had “come to have a little of his advice, if agreeable”.

The man replied, “quite agreeable, have the kindness to state your case”.

The butcher then proceeded to relate the tale of the dog, and the professional chap listened and then asked how much was the damage to the meat.

The reply was “four shillings and sixpence”, and the money was instantly paid.  The happy butcher walked away in triumph, but then heard a voice……. “Stop, you have to pay me six shillings and eightpence for my advice”

Imagine, reader, a sky all brightness and sunshine, and then think of its being suddenly overspread with clouds and darkness;  thus may you be able to form some idea of the transformation which came over the butcher’s face;  the knight of the cleaver walked away muttering unutterable things!

1845 – John Biddulp Interred in Ledbury Church

John Biddulph’s coffin was placed amongst his ancestors in the family vault in Ledbury church after a simple funeral.

He was remembered as a rich but very good man, who would be dreadfully missed by many including the poor of the town who had lost one of their greatest friends and benefactors.

Most of the shops and houses in Ledbury closed their shutters, and a feeling of genuine grief engulfed the town.

1845 – Child burnt to Death in Workhouse

Thomas Saunders, a young boy and inmate of the Ledbury Union Workhouse, was burnt to death when his clothes caught fire.

1847 – Ledbury gets Gas Lights

On the first Sunday in January 1847 the newly installed gas lights in Ledbury were lit for the first time:

“The town changed from heaviness and gloom to cheerfulness and light.  The event was hailed by feelings of unanimous joy throughout the whole of the town, and notwithstanding the sacredness of  the day, the bells commenced their gayest notes immediately on the completion of the illumination”

This new lighting was considered to be the first step in the improvement of Ledbury, however in 1862 the lights were no longer being lit due to a disagreement between the inspectors.

The suggestion of a rate was not well received, but three men, nameley G. Masefield, V. Barber and R. Edy formed a committe for canvassing Ledbury for subscriptions for lighting the lamps, of which there were 40, from early September to the beginning of December, when a rate would be made.

The amount needed was £37, and the committee were confident that the money would be quickly raised, by which time it was hoped that the rows that caused the darkness in Ledbury would have blown over.

1854 – Mail Cart from Ledbury to Hereford

The discontinuation of the London Mail coach from Hereford to Ledbury caused a great deal of inconvenience, and efforts were being made to establish a new Mail Cart to go From Ledbury to Hereford each morning, returning each evening.

1857 – Ledbury Market Hall Crumbling

Ledbury Market Hall was so dilapidated that it was in danger of falling down, but only £62 of the £250 needed had been raised.  An appeal was sent out to the 16,000 people in and around the Ledbury area.

1857 – Small Pox in Ledbury

Small Pox was very prevalent in 1857 in Ledbury and the surrounding area.  The Guardians set about putting up large posters to inform people of the free vaccination available.

1857 – Man Suffocates on Canal Boat at Ledbury

Alfred Dowling, aged around 16, was working for William Greenway the owner of a canal boat.

One evening after rather a lot to drink, Alfred lit a fire in the fore deck of his master’s boat which was lying in the canal near to Bye Street bridge, Ledbury.  The warmth from the fire plus the effects of drink soon sent him to sleep, and during the night someone closed the hatchway lid, confining the poor chap to a tiny unventilated space.

When the hatchway was opened next morning, Alfred was still alive…….just, but in spite of attentions from a surgeon, he died shortly afterwards.

1858 – The Railway Line at Ledbury Progresses

The works on the railway line near to Homend turnpike, Ledbury were progressing well with more than 80 men being employed.

The ballast had been made for some distance, the the considerable hight of the embankment could clearly be seen from the Hereford road.

1859 – The Railway Works at Ledbury

Contractors of the Worcester and Hereford Railway were working as fast as they could;  sheds and shopping for the use of masons, smiths etc. were being built next to the canal and adjoining the railway works, whilst huge machinery for making mortar etc. was being brought in.

A great many men were being employed on the building of the railway, and it was thought that work on the “monster viaducts” would soon commence.

1861 – The Ledbury Railway Tunnel Opens

An engine went through the tunnel for the first time, gaily decorated with flags and people from Ledbury along with the contractors, happily celbrated the event with copious amounts of sherry!

However, although the engine went through the tunnel very carefully and slowly, the two front wheels came off the line,  (trains to this day have to be extremely cautious when negotiating this tunnel), but as there were so many workmen around they soon had it back on the tracks.  The engine worked thereafter, taking soil from the Eastnor end of the tunnel to the viaduct at Ledbury.

In the same week, part of the Colwall Tunnel fell in, burying several men who were bricking part of the tunnel at No. 3 shaft.  Two men were dug out alive, but it was thought that another man was dead.

1863 – Railway Accident at Ledbury

One of the trucks of a goods train running from Hereford to Lebury, came off the rails at the Bush Pitch cutting by the viaduct, and was dragged for a distance until the driver stopped the train.  He uncoupled the truck and attaching it separately to the engine, took it into Ledbury station yard, leaving the rest of the train on the track near to the viaduct.

Meanwhile, at Ashperton station, Mr. Makepeace neglected to stop another train even though he had not received the signal of “line clear” from Ledbury, and this train approached the stationary trucks at the viaduct with great speed.  The driver, Mr. Bridgeman saw the trucks at the last minute, and shutting off the steam, reversed the engine then jumped off onto the embankment as did the stoker and guard – thankfully none of them were hurt.

A terrible crash then took place, with the engine being wrecked as well as the guard’s van and four or five trucks.  The line was torn up for two or three lengths of metal and the cost of the crash was estimated at between £600 and £700 pounds.

1860 – New Cemetery in |Ledbury

Messrs. McCann and Averal, builders from Great Malvern had their tender accepted for the erection of chapels and a sexton’s residence at this cemetery, and the Ledbury Burial Board requested that work should be commenced immediately.

1862 – Freemasonry in Ledbury

Freemasonry was making much progress in Herefordshire, and Lodges had been established in Hereford, Ross, Leominster and Ledbury, and were progressing very satisfactorily.

The brethren were getting reading to celebrate the centenary anniversary of the Hereford Palladian Lodge in October.

In Brief:

During the nineteenth century there were five coopers; four tanners; six maltsters; three curriers; ten boot makers, one portrait painter and seven schools.

It could accommodate up to 150 inmates so was slightly larger than the Abbey Dore Workhouse, and was by all accounts far stricter. As with all Workhouses, once anyone entered Ledbury they would be stripped of their clothes and scrubbed, then dressed in a uniform.

In accordance with the Poor Law Amendment Act of 1834 conditions inside a Workhouse had to be far worse than any the applicants might experience outside, with less food of lower quality. Whenever a man was forced to enter the workhouse, he had to take all his family with him, but they were then immediately split up and spent the rest of their time apart in different parts of the complex, only being reunited once they left. This was perhaps a very cruel rule, but it was designed to ensure that nobody became too settle and comfortable!

In Ledbury Workhouse a bell was rung throughout the day to alert inmates to the next routine, and this bell can be seen (and rung with permission) in the Butchers Row Museum in Ledbury.

Workhouse News

The following news items relate to the Ledbury Union Workhouse:

Refusal to break Stones

In July 1835 Caroline Hodges and Catherine Thomas of Ledbury Union Workhouse were charged with refusing to break a quantity of stones… They were committed to Hereford Gaol for 14 days hard labour

Riotous and Disorderly Conduct

On 8th July 1846 at the Ledbury Petty Sessions court Mr. Law, Master of the Ledbury Union Workhouse charged an old woman, Caroline Jones, with riotous and disorderly conduct on the previous Sunday in the Chapel, when she called him and the porter abusive names,  and at the same time exposed her person. Committed to Hereford Gaol for 21 days hard labour.

Christmas Day in the Workhouse

January 1848 – The guardians of the Ledbury Union Workhouse proudly announced that on Christmas Day they regaled the inmates with a superb dinner of roast beef, plum pudding and cider, for which they were all most grateful.

Violent and Abusive Behaviour in the Workhouse

September 1862 – Amelia Lancett, chargeable to the parish of Bosbury, was summoned by Mr. Meredith, Master of the Workhouse for having behaved badly with violent and disorderly behaviour in the workhouse, by breaking the windows and using filthy and obscene language to the Governess and others. Committed for 21 days hard labour

New Year Treat for Inmates

January 1887 – Annual New Years treat was given to inmates…..through the efforts of Master and Matron, Mr. and Mrs. Henry Morgan a concert was given . A capital programme was gone through and highly appreciated. After the concert, dancing and other amusements were enjoyed by young and old and a very enjoyable evening was spent.

August 1891 – Mrs Ballard and the Messrs Ballard of the Winnings Colwall, made a yearly event of a treat for the inmates, which included dinner and tea at their home. Always referred to as a treat.

Ledbury Union Workhouse Staff and Inmates 1841 Census

In 1854,  measures were taken to complete the much delayed and desperately needed work of restoration on St. Katherine’s Chapel.

The carved oak pulpit was carved by a Rector of Ledbury, The Revd John Jackson, and was completed in 1883.

In a glass case inside the church there is a sword which is reputed to have belonged to Major Backhouse – a Roundhead who was killed in the Battle of Ledbury in 1645 during the English Civil War.

Following the market charter being granted to the Bishop of Hereford by King Stephen in 1138, Sunday became not only a day for going to Church but also one for trading and the little cobbled street (which remains mostly unchanged to this day) leading up to the Church would be full of farm animals, and numerous stalls spilled out into the village with fruit, vegetables and other produce. Eventually, trading on a Sunday became discouraged and died out.

The separate bell tower of St. Michael & All Angels, taken from Church Lane

Font

There are two fonts, the oldest being 17^th century which was used until the end of the 18^th century when it was presumed lost or destroyed.  In fact it had been broken up into small pieces and was discovered hidden in the base of the replacement font which was made in the 19^th century.  It is now restored to its former glory.

Memorials

There are many fascinating monuments, and the Biddulph family dominate one corner of the church, with many memorials and a large family vault.

The Biddulphs came to Ledbury in 1688 when Anthony Biddulph married Constance Hall, great granddaughter of Edward Skynner. The house that they lived in is now called Ledbury Park and was only fairly recently sold out of the family. There are too many monuments to list, but here are some: Anthony and Constance Biddulph who died 1718 and 1706 respectively. Michael Biddulph who died 1880. Robert Biddulph died 1814 – there is a marble carving of his widow Charlotte, along with their children. Other monuments are to William Miles who died 1803 “then shall the dust return to the earth as it was, and the spirit shall return to God who gave it”; Captain Samuel Skynner dated 1725, “he was no mean proficient in Maritime affairs having ben conversant therein for forty years”; Mr. and Mrs. Moulton Barrett whose daughter was the poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning; Canon Thomas Thornton, Master of St. Katherine’s hospital in Ledbury from 1612 until his death in 1629; Edward Cooper, an alabaster slab of a man who was Archdeacon of Hereford and master of St. Katherine’s Hospital in Ledbury who died in 1596; Daniel Saunders – this for me is the most moving of all the monuments in the church, it dates from around 1825 and is by Sir Richard Westmacott. It has been described as follows: “”This monument is intended to commemorate the benevolence of the deceased, and represents the repose of a poor family. The man is seated, leaning on his staff, and affectionately regarding his wife who holds their infant in her arms; at his feet is their dog, the faithful companion of their weary pilgrimage.”

Rev. Prebendary C.E. Maddison Green R.D

Bust of Rev. Prebendary C.E. Maddison Green R.D. Plaque to the left for his wife Ella Doveton, eldest child of W.M.R. Haggard of Brackenham Hall, Norfolk. She died 29th March 1921 aged 76

John Michael Gordon

John Michael Gordon, Second Baron Biddulph. Last of the family to reside at Ledbury Park. Born 19th November 1869 and died 7th December 1949, and his wife Marjorie Caroline susan, born 30th april 1874, died 9th November 1961

Part of the large Biddulph family vault

The present building is made up of many additions over the years, following its near destruction in the Civil War. A Jacobean wing was built in the seventeenth century and a Georgian wing in the eighteenth. Later in the eighteenth century these two wings were joined up by a Georgian style house, and later still many Victorian alterations were made. It was originally owned by the Skyppe (also spelt Skippe) family who hailed from Norfolk, and one of the branches of this family who settled in Herefordshire was John Skippe, Bishop of Hereford from 1539 to 1552.

Alice Skippe married John Willason who leased the estate, and eventually bought it – and Upper Hall, along with other properties in the Ledbury area, passed through the death of Willason’s heir to John Skippe who died in 1619. Following generations of the Skippe family continued to buy land and property in Ledbury, until finally they sold it all in 1812.

Rev. Reginald Pyndar

For many years the Rev. Reginald Pyndar, Rector of Madresfield and Magistrate for Hereford, Worcester and Gloucester, and formerly of Worcestershire, was in residence until his death at Upper Hall aged 77 in 1831. In his will, he left his wife Mary “his interest in Upper Hall, with its household goods, plus its land and farming stock” . This, it seems, is of little interest to many local historians who have totally ignored his time at Upper Hall, and who mainly skip straight to the Martin family who came later.

Mary Pyndar

In 1841 the widow Mary lived at Upper Hall with two daughters, Elizabeth and Mary and 80 year old Colonel Cope, with the following servants:

Mary had a keen interest in the plight of the blind, and became actively involved in charity work to fund instruction for same; she was clearly a very well loved lady and was greatly missed after her death at Upper Hall in 1849.

The Martin family at Upper Hall

The new owners were the Martins of banking fame (Martins Bank eventually merged with Barclays), and they carried out a vast amount of work in the grounds, completing transforming it into beautiful parkland with many specimen trees, some of which were imported specially from abroad. The main drive was relocated through the grounds so that visitors could not fail to notice, and be impressed by the surroundings. Horticulture was very important to the family, and in the summer of 1867 the first Ledbury Cottage Gardening Society show was held in the grounds of Upper Hall and it drew a huge entry. Fortunately the weather was good, and thousands of visitors thronged to admire not only the entries but also exhibits by locals in the form of Mrs. Biddulph, the Earl Somers, and J. Ensley, and also to listen to three bands. There was the Ledbury Rifle Corps; a brass band, and a fife and drum band. Thomas Bennett, Head Gardener at Upper Hall was frequently asked to judge at other local gardening shows, but on this occasion it was the gardeners from neighbouring houses who carried out judging duties.

The Martins enjoyed their country pursuits, and the Ledbury Hunt regularly held their meets in the grounds; many years later in 1900 the Master of Ledbury Hunt, H.M. Wilson leased Upper Hall for roughly three years.

John Martin was born in 1805, and married Mary Morse with whom he had one daughter, Elinor Traherne. Mary died, and John then married her cousin, Maria Henrietta in 1847 who bore him both sons and daughters. She died in 1865.
In 1875, Elinor Traherne, the eldest daughter of John Martin of Upper Hall, married the Rev. F.W. Holland who was vicar of Evesham, then two years later in August 1877 A.H.Martin, the eldest son married Georgina Maude whose father was the late Colonel G. Haines of the Madras Army. She was also granddaughter of Field Marshal Viscount Gough. They married at Rathronar Church, Clonmel in Ireland.

John Martin dies at Upper Hall 1880

John Martin, banker and former Liberal MP for Tewkesbury died at Upper Hall aged 75. Apart from Upper Hall, he also had properties in London – 68 Lombard Street, and 14 Berkeley Square.
In his Will, he left to his eldest son, Waldyve Alexander Hamilton Martin, all his estates in Herefordshire and Warwickshire except for the mines, minerals, clay and sand. Another son, Hugo Hamilton Martin was left £15,000, and likewise his youngest child when reaching 21. Son John Evan Martin was left £30,000 and his daughters Edith and Ada £17,000 each. Daughters Nora and Frances gained an extra £500, and his eldest daughter Elinor Traherne Holland succeeded under settlement to properties in Colwall and Coddington.

April 1884 – Marriage of Francis Hamilton Martin

The marriage was arranged between Alexander Baillie of Chudleigh, Devon, and Francis Hamilton Martin of Upper Hall, youngest daughter of John Martin deceased; the ceremony taking took place in August the same year. In the press, a lovely happy picture is painted of the couple being showered with slippers and rice as they left for their honeymoon in Scotland, after which the Ledbury Fife and Drum band played for the guests at Upper Hall, whilst the Ledbury church bells pealed merrily for hours.

November 1886 – Marriage announcement for Waldyve A.H. Martin

An announcement was made that a marriage had been arranged between Waldyve A.H. Martin and Miss Francis Hanbury-Williams of Coldbrook Park, Monmouthshire

February 1888 – Marriage of Nora Hamilton Martin

Marriage of Nora Hamilton Martin to Charles Harvey Palairet, at St. Peters, Eaton Square

February 1888 – Auction of rare books from Library at Upper Hall

Sothebys auction many rare books and manuscripts from the libraries of Waldyve .A.H. Martin at Upper Hall. One can only hazard a guess as to why this had been necessary – perhaps the relentless society weddings in the family were taking their toll on the coffers!

1889 – Marriage of John E.H. Martin

Marriage arranged between John E.H. Martin, youngest son of John Martin, and Miss Charlotte Ethel Long, third daughter of the late Richard Penruddocks Long. They married at Bicester in 1889, and immediately after the wedding breakfast, along with many of the party, they hunted with the Bicester Hounds who had especially delayed the time of the Meet.

February 1890 – Elizabeth Barret Browning Memorial in Ledbury

Waldyve Martin in residence at Upper Hall, and proving himself to be an active campaigner for the Elizabeth Barret Browning memorial in Ledbury.
“the large and very quaint Elizabethan market house in Ledbury, built upon sixteen substantial pillars, was crowded to excess by enthusiastic town folk when it was unanimously resolved that a Barrett Browning memorial clock tower should be erected in the centre of the town.

The money raised by the some two and a half thousand people reached around £500 – the same amount again was required, and it was decided that the numberless admirers of the “greatest poetess that ever lived” should be asked to help. Mr. Barrett lived at Hope End, just two miles out of Ledbury and took an active religious and social interest in the town

The plea to the papers:
“may I be allowed to plead in your columns for assistance, and remind your readers that old Ledbury lies nestled neath “those beautiful, beautiful hills”, and that our immediate locality when looking its best in leafy June, certainly suggests the lines engraved on the memories of thousands….
Green the land is where my daily
Steps in jocund childhood played
Dimpled close with hill and valley
Dappled very close with shade
Summer snow of apple blossoms
Running up from glade to glade
Donations could be sent, amongst others, to Waldyve A.H. Martin at Upper Hall.

The money was raised and the memorial Clock tower was built. The building currently houses the public library.

This photo also shows a corner of the market house as mentioned above.

Amongst other talents, Waldyve was an accomplished artist.

May 1893 – Marriage of Hugo Martin

Hugo Martin, second son of the late John Martin, arranges marriage to Mary Cecilia, youngest daughter of the late Captain Coventry, and married in August at Leigh Church near Malvern

August 1895 – Church window memorial for John Martin

Ledbury church reopens after a year of alterations, which included a stained glass East window to the memory of John Martin, and also to his first and second wife, along with the first wife of W.A.H. Martin.

Upper Hall Household and servants 1891

Upper Hall Household and servants 1911

I am fascinated by the fact that out of six servants, three of them came from Norfolk.

During WW1, Upper Hall was turned into a hospital for wounded soldiers, and Waldyve and his wife took an active part in the proceedings.

By 1920, this large and imposing mansion had ended its life as a family residence, and was sold to Herefordshire Council who converted it to what became known as Ledbury Grammar School.

In WW11 it again took on the mantle of hospital for wounded soldiers, after which it was extended and carried on life as a school, including post 1978 when for a time it became part of John Masefield High School, accommodating 11 to 13 year olds.

In the late 1990s, after some years of being neglected, Upper Hall was sold to a London solicitor, who converted it, and all the outbuildings, to private apartments.